2.09.2008

NYC Fall 08: Marc Jacobs

Oh Marc Jacobs, you had me at Sonic Youth, but the show was incredible. The way that he can just jump from different influences and silhouettes from season to season is amazing. This was a weird collection, I am not going to lie to you, very loose silhouette, big shoulders, big pants. It's bold and it sort of commands women to take space in the world. It's a collection that will divide the critics and everyone else and I admit that I don't still fully understand it, but I think I've got an idea what it all means. Let's look at the clothes now.



This look opened the show. I imagine that it made everyone stop in their tracks. The coat is really gorgeous, I couldn't tell if it was a very delicate fur (does Marc do fur?) or just a beautiful camel hair, but whatever it is, it's a very subtly luxurious fabric. I love the open neckline and the way that he layered a beautiful silver cuff necklace under the shirt. It's such a conservative look, but the subversion is in the details I think. The necklace is both equal parts s&m slave chic and the neck rings worn by some tribes in Africa and Asia.



This was the second look. This is such a strange look, like she's wearing her boyfriend's shirt and then made a skirt out of a blanket. I don't mean this as an insult, of course, just pointing out the sort of simplicity and underlying tone that I get from the model. The headgear was all over the place in this show, and this little Peter Pan hat is really cute, but I definitely don't see people wearing it out on the street. It's almost old lady-ish? Honestly, the more I look at it the more attracted I am to it, but I can't quite pinpoint its allure. It's probably part of it.



This is one of the looks that's going to be in all the magazines (it was the front page for Style.com), and they're going to talk about an underlying 80's vibe because of her headband and stuff. I think the coat is gorgeous and I love the little lightning bolt going down the side and that's it.



There was a general feel of retro going on in this how, but it wasn't because the clothes were hinting at a particular time period, but because of their spirit. (Does that sound weird? Do you guys think I'm a weird hippie now?) It could be worn by a character in a Hitchock movie, but it could also be worn by a character in a futuristic movie. I think it's really lovely and I love the contrast of the minimal silhouette with all the jewelry.



I love that he showed such a strong shoulder! Last we'd seen such a silhouette was at Margiela last season and I love that he translated it to semi-futuristic American sportswear, but it also has an underlying Victorian vibe going through it. Are you catching all this?









Another super wearable look. I love the simplicity of this dress. The metal cuff makes an appearance again, this time in the shape of the most amazing bracelet you've ever seen. It's stuffed with pearls inside! Have you ever seen such a thing? It's so massive, futuristic but also hints a bit at classicism and pure glamour. I wonder who's doing his jewelry design at his label?








This is the new silhouette. I think that this is going to be in a lot of editorials, because this is what the new silhouette will be like. We've seen other designers this season playing with oversized, slouchy proportions, and I'm sure we will still see it in the rest of the cities. It's pure American Sportswear if you think about it.


His accessories were amazing this season. I never found myself oohing and aahing over so many things. One of his handbags had an applique of a mid 20th century car, which I think is the biggest clue in this collection. The austerity of the clothes reflects back to the rules and regulations established by the government on how women should dress during the war in an effort to save materials and money for the war effort, and then that, clashes with the big, over the top, almost gaudy jewelry. It's definitely a social commentary on today, (did I read too much into it?, I wasn't even trying, it really just sort of happened). I personally feel like right now we are entering a new era in history, of course now it's too soon to tell, but a couple of years in the future, when we differentiate between The Modern Times, aka, late 20th century and whatever the new era will be called, this is a collection that will stand right in the middle of it and signal a change. Actually, I just really want to have a new way of dressing that's cool like in the old times. hahaha. See how fast I can get off my speaking horse? HA! Here are some images of my most favorite baubles in his collection. If I was filthy rich, you bet I'd be dropping mad money to acquire all of these.

This collection was truly something else. I hope I get to be lucky one day and see one of his shows in person. It has to be such a cool experience. Marc didn't disappoint once again, and that's why he is the king in my book.

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