Milan Fall 09: Jil Sander

Raf Simons is a fucking genius. Listen, this is true. This collection was FLAWLESS. It was 100% Jil Sander and it was also 100% Raf Simons. Throughout all his time, he has always retained the original Sander spirit and he's infused it with his awesome nouveaux minimal aesthetic that doesn't shy away from adding decorative details in a completely non-baroque way.

Part 1: Classic Jil Sander

The collection was divided in two parts. The first paid homage to classic Jil Sander, with looks like this one, featuring turtlenecks and collar-less long jackets (which really IS classic Jil Sander), lots of neutral colors and hemlines at the knee. You really, truly, can't go wrong with these.

Perfect sharp suit paired with brightly colored pointed flats. Totally awesome. I really dig the cut of the pants. This would be the best suit to spend money on in these times. You know you'll wear it forever and it'll never go out of style.

Karlie Kloss in "The Disappearing Dress".

This is the right kind of classic minimalism. A simple grey shift dress worn with bright yellow pointed pumps. Nothing else is needed and nothing can be taken away.

Part 2: Raf Simons looks to the future.

The second part of the show was an incredibly parade of garments with insane curvilinear details and/or silhouettes inspired by French ceramicist Pol Chambost (a dude so obscure that he doesn't even have a Wikipedia page!). The tension going on here between the positive and negative space that the coat is creating is AMAZING. Almost like her head is floating on nothing and if you tried to touch her stomach, your hand would just keep going for forever. The red lining at the neck swirl is SUCH an unexpected detail it makes you rethink everything you thought you had already seen.

Orange and navy are always a great combination. It's such a simple, pleasing shape.

This color mustard is perfect. The silhouettes are so incredible that all they need is the right color that will be able to carry them from imagination to reality. Perfectly paired with grey suede pumps, of course.

Love a futuristic coat with rounded shapes. It seems like a much less obvious way to look at the future. I can only imagine what this fabric looks like in real life.

Can you guys see how this leather dress wraps slightly around the back of the neck? Oh it's so good. This seems to good to be true somehow. The cut and lines of this dress are just... wow.

This is one of the more literal interpretations of his inspiration (her head is basically sticking out the top of a vase), but OH its so good. Yellow and grey. Talk about unexpected, brings all the attention to your face. Wear to an important meeting and leave feeling like a WINNER. Perfect length on those sleeves as well.

A little to the left at the top and a little to the right on the bottom. In this dress you are always in movement, even if you are standing.

At first this seems a little awkward, but the more I look at it, the more I enjoy its quiet flow.


emilie said...

it's refreshing that you seem to give every collection a chance

very beautiful white coat

E.K. said...

Wow this is my favorite collection! Thanks for sharing.

1234 said...

raf simons, will you marry me?
ps i love the new header.


Raf Simons is A-mazing! i love the construction of the garments.. :)

Nice Blog! ;)

Lily said...

great post. Raf Simons. my new found obsession

Anonymous said...

I think it's just the photo that makes the last one look a little awkward - i know what you mean from that snap but:

He is mind bendingly brilliant.