NYC Fall 2010: Rodarte

Rodarte's fall presentation was a giant step forward in their collective narrative. I watched the entire show on Showstudio (which I highly recommend you do too, so you can see the amazing walkthrough at the end with blacklights and glow-in0the-dark heels), and when the first look came out I actually said "ohmygod this is Rodarte?". The mix of textures is definitely one of their signatures, but they surely had never attempted this with such a delicate mix of materials and such a subtle color palette. The colors in the skirt are incredible, and I love the vaguely-Aztec print skirt paired with a checker print. I can't even come up with a clever "x-meets-x" analogy because the whole thing just seems so NEW but somehow FAMILIAR at the same time.

There was definitely a 90's vibe running through the show, though it wasn't totally evident. The chunky knit sweater worn with the "vintage" flower pattern and open knit long sleeve tee worn underneath, recall a kind of grunge aesthetic.

You guys know I love a sheer trouser, and these beaded ones are really speaking directly to my heart. The floral prints they reminded me of the velvet sofas I often encounter when visiting older relatives back at home, but somehow they seem genuinely beautiful.

Nicholas Kirkwood did the shoes again, but this season it wasn't about "how high can you go" or "how much of a weapon can you become". It was a strange mishmash that created an awkwardly beautiful shoe. The ribbons tied around the ankle remind me of ballet shoes (and these clothes wouldn't look our of place at a ballet). Who makes a shoe that's purple and black and white? Kirkwood, that's who.

EPIC eagle sweater.
TOTAL must-have.

If Elaine Benes was a cool chick, she would wear this dress. Please understand that I mean this as a compliment. But you know what I mean? This dress just kinda has that 90's floral dress vibe that she so favored, except that when you layer it with multiple luxurious fabrics of varying patterns and colors it becomes something else that's secretly epic.

Ps. Socks with shoes is the new thing for fall. I support this 100%

The perfect winter coat, will surely be seen on a couple of it-girls next fall.

As the show progressed, the vibrant orange and pink tones faded into white and then it became a mix of different fabrics and patterns that culminated in three long, layered white gowns perfect for any Childlike-Empress. Kate and Laura's layering experiments have culminated in an awesome hyper-femininity that has a hint of bohemian luxury and futuristic power-woman. This is by far, my favorite collection of theirs ever and I am on board to wherever they are taking this crazy train.


In-tree-gue said...

Ths collection was such a fantasy. Watching the video, i felt like i was immersed in an ethereal dreamland and i honestly felt my breahting slow down. It had a very calming sensation(much like Marc this season)and it really showed an evolution on the Mulleavies part. They managed to go from post apacolyptic warrior to ethereal, haunted childhood dresses. I definitley felt their inspiration(border town that was slightly abandoned) and i am loving this general switch from hard black studded leather to soft, calming shows this fw has shown.
The procession of white dresses in the end was magical and i can't find words to desribe them

KD said...

Word! To everything!

Sin-ger said...

Love Rodarte, when I think they can't do anything else to surprise me, they totally redeem themselves.

jen said...

It's funny - you picked all my favorite outfits from their show!

I LOVED the shoes. Like you said, somewhat like ballet shoes but also a mix of those granny boot lace-ups from the 80s/early 90s.

That white dress at the end makes me wish I wasn't already married because this would have been my dream wedding dress.

Shoelosophy said...

loved it! Rodarte killed it!!! and nicholas kirkwood for his crazy but amazing shoes!

hazel said...

i loved it so much. when i saw the florals i kind of thought, "woah rodarte pulls this out of their hats?!" all of the silhouettes were classic rodarte, and those shoes were just way too good. god these girls keep creating the most beautiful work and i can't get over it.

Landice Anderson said...

Rodarte is so gorgeous this season I can hardly deal. It's causing me to have heart palpitations, etc etc.

lukewarm royalty @ blogspot.

ashford said...

the details are amazing! really separates fashion from clothing

David Barrie said...

Great post. There's a romanticism to Rodarte that's amazing: and you're right, this collection seems to take it in to a different, new space. :)