Alexis Mabille kept a simple color palette and experimented with an over-the-top femininity that was anchored by tomboy details. There's something a bit awkward about the proportions. There's an interesting tension happening between the sporty vibez of the tank and the formal skirt, although the black piping on the pockets (!!!) is unexpected and playful; as are the huge bows on the sandals. Some of the tuxedo experiments are a bit reminiscent of Viktor & Rolf, but I think they were still successful. I especially love the jacket paired with the peach shirt with oversized bowtie at the neck. (Coulda done without the earrings...)
At Valentino, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli channeled a fabulous weird warrior-nun situation. There's a slight undertone that's a little Yves Saint Lauret and a little Balenciaga, but only because of its classic/futurist vibes.
Riccardo Tisci pulled out all the stops for his latest Givenchy collection. The embellished long dresses are over-the-top glamorous but also feel very fragile and special. They are almost magical.