11.18.2010

Mr. Ford's Women

After months of antici....pation, the images of Tom Ford's debut womenswear collection are out (an exclusive with American Vogue and Steven Meisel, of course). If you recall, his presentation during New York fashion week was an extremely hush-hush affair that not even Blasberg tweeted about. All we knew was that the models were all a mix of his famous friends; Julianne Moore and Iman shared the spotlight with Beyonce and Karen Elson and it was of course, the most fabulous affair of the season.

It turns out that the clothes are just as fabulous as we expected them to be, but there's a marked change from the clothes and the image that he was known for during his days at Gucci and YSL. Mr. Ford, as he likes to be called now, is done with titillation and amateur sexuality and has replaced it with sophisticated charmed life-leading women. That the whole collection has an undeniable 70's feel is nothing new, he's always shown an affection for the dark decadence and over-the-top opulence of the jet set during that era, but these are not clothes to dance in mirrored ballrooms with clouds of white powder floating all around. Under the super-glam styling are impeccable suits perfect for high-powered meetings, fabulous dresses for museum galas and knee-length shift dresses that surely made every fashion editor weak at the knees. They're borderline-couture clothes for the working women of the elite.


For all their show-stopping power, the collection does not feel particularly modern, but that's not really a bad thing. Each piece seems to have a history and a specific reason for existing. The fringed maxi-dress that Karen Elson wears in the third image has hints of Dolly Parton but stops right short of ridiculous. You see that dress and you can already imagine all the good times you are going to have while wearing it. And the same goes for the leopard/cheetah(?) print suit Amber Valletta is wearing in the last image. Its brashness precludes an amazing experience, letting reason talk you out of buying it would be your lifelong (first world problem) regret.

And I guess that's really why we'll always buy what Mr. Ford is selling. Because even when the clothes don't really appeal to my current interests and aesthetics (most certainly a first) there is still a part of me that finds it aspirational in the same way that sometimes you watch a movie and you wish your life was happening alongside that "feel the rain on your skin song" even though you know that it's just not real and mostly obnoxious. You know what I mean?

I thought about all this adult glamour change, and then I saw the cover for the December issue of Vogue Paris, which he edited. Daphne Groeneveld, the young new model with the lip and teeth of Lara Stone and Brigitte Bardot's magical offspring, is all glossy lips and smoky eyes while Mr. Ford stands behind with that classic smize of his. If you remember, Carine was his co-conspirator during his sexxed up hey-day, so I can only imagine what sort of scandalous content awaits within. Has he changed after all? WHO KNOWS?!!
Alls I know is that this cover really feels like a holiday cover.
And after all is said and done, I am just overjoyed that he is finally back.

3 comments:

readysetfashion said...

ditto. love his smize!

amber said...

i can't wait to buy this!
http://thelinesheet.tumblr.com

Ivette Rossana said...

Oh Tom Ford is a god!!

And the print is neither leopard nor cheetah. It's ocelot-inspired. Confirmed with my cat book.

Gorgeus and sexy, but overall SHARP AND PRECISE. I'm glad he's back! Can't wait to see that Vogue issue!!

la madre que te pario