this is about nuances

on march 5 my alarm went off and i hit snooze three times as is my custom and once i got out of bed i did not look at instagram and i did not look at twitter and i did not look at facebook. i went straight to style.com with my cup of coffee and clicked on the louis vuitton collection. i wanted to make sure i experienced the collection as close to everyone else, with no "sneak peeks" and in the exact progression it was meant to be seen.

i wanted to now, how would nicolas do vuitton?
and how would vuitton do nicolas?
(it's a two-way street)

the first look was freja in a slouchy white turtleneck, off-white jumper and long black leather jacket with an oversized orange contrasting collar. i stared at it for two minutes and i smiled.

it was all about the neck. there was something familiar about it, something that made me think nicolas is going back to the beginning–he is going back to his beginning–he is making a new beginning.

i thought of the early 2000's and the young belgian fashion design wave. now, i know that nicolas is not belgian, but i think during that time a lot of the new avant garde designers were belgian and the ones that weren't still shared in their new pro-fashion-anti-fashion that was their unifying thread. i cannot describe it in a look because it wasn't about a look. it was about an attitude, a gesture, a suggestion. but when i saw this first look–the normal hair that isn't, the hint of retro that's not based on nostalgia but on nature, on your surroundings, on the architecture–i knew he had hit the reset button in order to truly immerse himself in this new world. 

balenciaga fall 1998
damn, i love a self-reference!

a look back at his second-ever collection for balenciaga proves my point, with its elongated silhouettes and of course, white turtlenecks and emphasis on the torso and shoulders.

i am thrilled.

i have had a million thoughts race through my head and i am only on the first look. 


the recurring theme in the collection will involve the extra long belts looped through themselves at the natural waist. the color palette, with its browns. danish blues and hunter greens, recalls a forest, a foreign forest than the ones we know because we have never been or maybe because they never existed. a cropped zip-up track jacket suddenly becomes more than the sum of its parts. i do not ever use the word chic because it is a useless word, but right now i cannot think of another word to describe the way these pieces are working together.

(i guess the fashion magazines have trained me well.)


then he brought in the knits and i was ready to call out mercy! i support these full-on knit ensembles because i am all about comfort and uniforms and this brings to mind both. the double-faced neckline of the turtleneck is where the LUXURY detail comes in. i want this to be a vest worn with matching leggings but will secretly be more excited if it is a jumpsuit. is this what you wear to go skiing? i don't go skiing because of course but i would wear this around the lodge or whatever you call it while i tumblrd in front of a fireplace or read i love dick again or something. 

i keep looking back at the neckline. why is it all in the collar? what is the attitude that a slightly slouchy turtleneck recalls? i think, she doesn't care but in the way that people with money can afford to not care and look like they care. (but note: this is not about normcore!). 

just one earring. simple hair. and that turtleneck. 

then came the DEEP SCOOP tanks tucked into these high-waist roll down skirts (turtlenecks for your waist) that were, once again, secured in place by the leather belts and everything else in the world made sense and fell into place.

(in case you didn't notice my tank top goes in deep, i will also wear this chain to draw your attention to my sternum. let's talk about sternums!)

what is happening here is this developing of a new vocabulary right in front of our eyes. a version of modernity rooted in a version of futurism that acknowledges that the future is now. it's a new way of dressing but it's a familiar way of dressing because how else would we be able to walk forth and endure/explore the strange world that keeps unfolding upon us with every passing day.

the thing about nicolas is that he can elicit these incredible feelings within me, balls of energy that through my eyes make their way into my heart and maybe my stomach but definitely my brain. whether he is designing dresses better suited for robots or cyborgs, creations of silicone and metal or  designing a knit trouser worn with a turtleneck, there is magic.

it feels like poetry sometimes, i mean, has a turtleneck ever made you smile?

1 comment:

Claire Yost said...

My favorite is the first look with the turtle neck. The model looks like Jelo.