couture is dead, long live viktor & rolf

It is. It's dead. No one wants to say anything because fashion is all about not really saying what you think so that no one gets upset, if someone gets upset then there goes the money and if there's no money then what would be the point of anything? But I already don't have money so I don't mind telling you the truth.

Couture is dead.

Maybe it started dying once Galliano got drunk and said the things that he said. They were wrong, of course, and he shouldn't have said them, but once he was out so were the dreams. Don't get me wrong, I love Raf. Raf could make me wear a cardboard box as underwear and I'm sure I would love it. But Raf does not deal in dreams. He deals in beautiful interpretations of the future, his reign at Dior has been exacting and modern. It is what we need now, but they are not dreams the way that Galliano dreamt. They are not origami dresses, or exercises in channeling other times and other cultures (which let's face it, the Tumblr police would probably not allow anyways because they are all about killing dreams and also fun).

So I looked through the couture collections, wanting to get carried away to far away lands, and nothing happened. Couture is now a parade of dresses that we will see actresses parade down red carpets in future events. Not that there's anything wrong with that! But actresses do not wear dreams, the actresses that would dare to wear dreams would surely end up in the fashion police pages, because their lives are already a dream and how dare they wear their dreams on their sleeves. I click on designer after designer and it's all sequins and mesh and glamour! glamour! glamour!

Glamour is fine but boring when it lacks fantasy.

Then almost at the end, I click on Viktor & Rolf and I am greeted with the ultimate red carpet fantasy.

A whole collection of LITERAL red carpet dresses.


Some made to look like actual plush carpeting, I imagine velvet-y in feel. Others in probably silk, that would be more destined to end in actual red carpets. But only by those who do not fear what the scathing tongues of fashion plebs might say (Tilda Swinton, I'm obviously talking about you).

Concepts can so often get out of hand. I generally loathe things with a message because we're supposed to excuse sub-par quality because it's supposed to save the world or something. This won't save the world and it won't save the fashion world, either (does it need saving?).

It's fine. Once upon a time it was like Hollywood and the capital F-Fashion world were separate. They're not anymore and I can't really hang on to my perceived notion of what fashion was from when I was 10 and reading magazines. There was a time when everyone was always complaining about the irrelevancy of Couture, and maybe they still do, but probably now they realize that without it, they would have nothing to read in US Weekly and E! would have a lot more dead air to fill with Sex & the City reruns.

So Viktor and Rolf (as in, the people, not the brand, but also the brand) win this round. Their humor, which has been missed around these parts for a while, has come back at the perfect time, to perfectly encapsulate the State Of Fashion Today. It's so easy to forget what fashion can really be, "is fashion art?" is a tired question anyways, especially when these days "is art art?" is a real question that we must ask ourselves also (I'm looking at you, Franco). But every once in a while, you don't need to ask any questions, because the answers are so obvious and because the clothes, if you let them, can really speak for themselves.


Purushu Arie said...
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Amanda said...

loved these too.. what couture should be :)